Posted by: Jessie Kwak | September 7, 2009

Day 4: Lima gets theatrical and tastes truly divine.

We hit up our first touristy part of Lima yesterday (Sunday), Barranco, and ate what we unanimously decided was the best thing we have ever eaten in our entire lives:  Conchita de la Parmesana.


These amazing morsels at the fantastic Cevicheria el Muelle were scallops on the half shell, smothered with butter and parmesan cheese and then broiled to a perfect golden brown.  How have I made it just until this year without eating scallops?  I tell you, I am now ready to massacre entire colonies, just like I did in Baja last January.


The ceviche was everything I was hoping it would be, full of lime-y goodness, raw fish, octupus, shrimp, calamari, and (yes!) more scallops!  We’ll be back on Tuesday for a second opinion.


Barranco was nice–a quaint little area painted predominantly a mustard yellow with white trim, full of little cevicherias (yes!) and churches.  We wandered the streets for a while, then made our way to the circus.  We were possibly one of the only couples there without our kids, but since we kept getting punched and elbowed by the little runts in the row behind us, I feel like we got the whole experience, regardless.


The circus perormers were fantastic, with the typical blend of horses, tumblers, and aerialists, but it was the musicians who really stole the show.  They had a split stage with an Afro-Peruvian drum group on one side, and an Andean-jazz fusion group (pan pipes, saxophones, guitar and double bass) on the other.  The whole show was built around a tension between the two cultures, coastal and Andean, with one of the Black musicians wooing and eventually marrying the daughter of an Andean sorcerer (hechicero).  Sometimes one group or the other would play in competition, but most often they played together in an awesome blend of styles.

We’re both pretty beat up today (Monday), what with my lingering capture-the-flag injury and Rob’s defective big toe, so we’re scrapping plans to go to the center in favor of watching soccer highlights in the hostel.  We’l lhead out later tonight to the brewery Industrias de Tomás, where hopefully we’ll be able to meet the head brewer and taste some delicious not-pilsner beers.  Yum yum!



  1. Sounds like it would be very worth all the hassle to get to Lima just to eat the seafood in Barranco!! I’m tempted.

  2. Count me in, Aunt Pat!

  3. Just found this post via Google as I am off to Lima on Monday. Your description of the ceviche – and cevicherias – makes me think I will be very, very happy in Barranco; this is a great post, thanks!!

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