Posted by: Jessie Kwak | October 22, 2009

Traveler’s fatigue in the City of Friendship

Welcome to Chiclayo, City of Friendship.

We’ve certainly gotten the most attention here of all the places we’ve been, and people yell “hello” at us at least once a block. Adults yell it. Gaggles of middle-school girls yell it. Taxi drivers. Tour guides. We say “hello” back, and that’s generally the end of the conversation (except with tour guides, where there’s never a way to end the conversation).

Way too cute.

Way too cute.

We’ve been relaxing here and catching up on our work, and haven’t had much time in our coffee-drinking, ice cream-eating schedule to visit the much-touted ruins of the area. I think that since Kuelap nothing will quite measure up…). We did go out with Angela of France to see Túcume, said to be the biggest pyramid complex in all of South America.

I’m certain that statistically that’s true, but realistically every ruin on Peru’s north coast was built with the only material they had to work with: mud bricks. Over time, no matter how spectacular the pyramids, cities, or temples were when first constructed, today they resemble tall brown hills pitted and gouged by rain.

I want to believe.

I want to believe.

Túcume was the same—as with most of these ruins, what’s most interesting is what was found inside them, rather than the ruins themselves. Túcume is being worked on right now anyway, so that much of the complex is off-limits to visitors. After visiting the Huaca de la Luna in Trujillo, which truly was fascinating, I would say that Túcume is similar, but with small flies that bite you and you can’t go inside anything.

Peruvian hairless dogs:  a must for any archeological site.

Peruvian hairless dogs: a must for any archeological site.

The museums here are supposed to be quite well done, though, and full of gold artifacts. Any gold the Spaniards got their hands on was melted into ingots in order to ship back to Spain, so very few gold artifacts remain. After two months of looking at pottery, gold will be a good change.

We’re off to Lima tonight for Oktoberfest at Industrias De Tomás, then heading south where I anticipate finding good wine (Ica), deep canyons (Arequipa), and Bolivia (Bolivia). Good times ahead!




  1. it looks you have a nice time around north Peru guys! I thought of you yesterday because I have been to La Paz stadium assisted to a football match Bolivar vs Blooming! nice time!

    enjoy south Peru, especially Ica wineries and Arequipa wich is very nice!


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